Taking measurements and reading your figure is the first step in
making your suit or shirt. There are 22 measurements and 13
checking points (with 52 varieties) of your posture to be taken and
recorded in the first fitting. Just thinking about this kind of detail begins
to explain why a custom suit fits and moves in a way that cannot be
bought off-the-peg.

While we are constructing your suit, the pieces are steam-heat
shrunk, actually before cutting. This step allows the fabric to go back
to its original form, since it has suffered so long by being twisted and
kept on a bolt.

The interior of any suit is created with canvas. The canvas has to be
shrunk by hot water. That is one of the reasons why one suit still
survives after numerous dry-cleanings when the other doesn't.

To see how we fit and construct your suit and to better understand
what you get when you buy a custom made tailored suit, herewith are
the main focus points our tailors study.

Shoulders

Your shoulders are selectively considered when making a suit or
jacket. Shoulder pads are made to suit different styles and different
body-figures; for example, we put different shoulder pads for the
"Brooks Brother Style suit" shoulders as to the "Brioni Style"
shoulders. Different builds require different shape or thickness of a
shoulder pad.

Also note that one of the best secrets a custom suit offers its
wearer is the ability to refine or even correct a physical defect. Even
posture can be made to look better when a suit is properly built,

Most people have one shoulder lower than the other, the question is
merely "how much". The greater the difference between the slope of
the two shoulders, the more the jacket will lean toward one side, the
higher the shoulder side. Since we aren't surgeons, we cannot alter
the body -- but we can adjust the paper pattern to make the jacket fit.

We don' t just put two different thickness shoulder pads to get an
easy way out, but instead, we made the left side jacket to correctly
fit the client's left side body and make the right side jacket to fit his
right side body.

Collar and Lapel

Collars and lapels are carefully put together by hand. Under the
collar and lapel we put over a thousand hand stitches in the way that
the fabric lays a little tighter than the canvas, so the lapels give a
curve shape and lays naturally and permanently on the jacket.

Sleeves

Sleeves are set and hand basted to the jacket carefully before
stitching. During the fittings, we record the position of your arms
when you stand naturally, and now are the time we use this
information. We cut, trim and rotate the sleeves until they fit your
arm's position according to our record. This way, the jacket looks
perfect when you stand and when you move, while still allowing you
to move freely.

The higher the armhole, the more freedom in moving. Of course, you
can't go too high so the armhole catches your armpit. Around the
armholes, we use reverse chain stitch by hand-sewing, which restricts
the fabric from sagging but at the same time it allows the fabric to
give a little, this enables considerable ease of movement.

Buttons & Buttonholes

Working buttonholes are skillfully put on to the sleeves after the
final fitting. The functional buttonholes on sleeves are a signature of a
custom-made suit. Most of the off-the-rack suits don't have functional
buttonholes on sleeves because a ready made jacket are made to fit
people of different sleeve lengths, the functional buttonholes on
sleeves will limit the shortening or lengthening of the jacket sleeves.

While the normal eye may not be able to tell the difference between
a plastic button and a good quality button, the wear and tear on a suit
will sooner or later be reflected in how the buttons wear. We suggest
horn buttons for suits and mother of pearl buttons for shirts. For
blazers, we carry a selection of highest quality brass or gold-plated
button sets in our showroom for you to choose.

The Jacket

Canvas provides the basic skeleton of a jacket. We don' t use fused
canvas or pre-fabricated shells as is customary in mass-produced
clothing. We use different canvas to match the fabrics and the styles.
The canvases we use are a blend of goat hair and wool.

Canvas has to be cut, sewn and constructed properly to match the
fabric piece to ensure smoothness through out the life of the garment.

Increasing the lifespan of jacket, invisible hand stitching are
painstakingly put around the edge of the jacket. It also adds a touch
of elegant to the hand-tailored garment.

Cotton tape is sewn on to all seams that are likely to sag. This
reinforcement prolongs the preferment of the garment.

Trousers

The song may have the refrain "Sam, you made the pants too long."
Here, we don't sing that song. Each measurement of the trousers and
each detail in making them results in trousers that move with the body
and yet feel comfortable while walking or sitting - even when sitting on
an airplane for a long period of time.

Belt-loops are always tucked in the waistband. That is no cut-end of
the belt-loops showing. It looks neat and is smooth to use.

To increase the lifespan of trousers, we put self-material tapes on the
ham of the trousers cuffs to protect the fabric from. In case you gain
some weight in the future, we leave reasonable amount of allowance
on all seams for future expansion.

The above are some of the procedure we carry out our products.
Don't be confused with normal practice of most tailors.

NOTE: We keep your personal pattern for future orders; don't
worry, it is possible to adjust your paper-pattern after each fitting. We
keep you corrected pattern on file for your future order. The date each
suit is made is also recorded inside the suit and in your personal
client profile that we keep in our offices in Hong Kong. All of these
factors will help you to reorder smoothly and even to avoid duplicating
or too-similar fabrics.

• Custom-made suit for him
• Things to do before ordering